Getting Started in Motorsport Photography on a Budget
Motorsport photography has a reputation for being expensive. We’ve all seen the photographers trackside with monster 400mm or 600mm lenses that cost more than a small car. For beginners, that can be intimidating — but the truth is, you don’t need pro-level kit to start capturing great shots at your local circuit.
With a sensible budget, a few smart choices, and some practice, you can get trackside with a setup that costs less than a set of tyres for a track day car. In this blog, I’ll walk you through what you need, how much it’ll realistically cost in the UK, and how to get the best results without breaking the bank.
Choosing the Right Camera Body
Your camera body is the heart of the setup, but it’s worth remembering: in motorsport, the lens does most of the heavy lifting. That said, you’ll still want a body that can handle fast-moving subjects. Look for something with:
A burst rate of at least 6 frames per second (so you don’t miss the moment).
Decent autofocus tracking to keep up with cars at speed.
Good ergonomics — you’ll be shooting for hours, so comfort matters.
Great budget options (used prices):
Canon EOS 80D – Around £350–£400. Reliable, well-built, and widely available.
Nikon D7500 – Around £450–£500. Brilliant for low light and quick AF.
Sony a6400 – Around £550–£600. Compact mirrorless with lightning-fast focus.
Fujifilm X-T30 II – Around £500–£550. Stylish, lightweight, and fantastic JPEGs.
If you’re really stretching your budget, don’t be afraid of slightly older bodies like the Canon 70D or Nikon D7100. They might be 7–10 years old, but you can find them for under £300, and they’ll still deliver.
The Lens – Your Most Important Investment
Ask any photographer and they’ll tell you: it’s better to buy a cheaper body and a better lens than the other way around. In motorsport, this is especially true. You need a telephoto zoom to bring the action closer, and thankfully, there are some very affordable options.
Beginner-friendly telephoto zooms:
Canon EF-S 55–250mm f/4–5.6 IS STM – Around £120–£150. Lightweight, stabilised, and surprisingly sharp.
Nikon AF-P DX 70–300mm f/4.5–6.3 – Around £150–£200. Great for beginners, fast-focusing, and very capable.
Sony 55–210mm f/4.5–6.3 OSS – Around £150–£180. A good starter option for Sony shooters.
Sigma/Tamron 70–300mm f/4–5.6 – Around £100–£150. Widely available, budget-friendly, and fits most mounts.
If you’ve got more to spend, stepping up to something like the Sigma 100–400mm f/5–6.3 (£550–£600 used) or the Tamron 100–400mm f/4.5–6.3 (£500–£550 used) gives you more reach and sharper results, but it’s by no means essential when you’re just starting out.
Accessories That Make Life Easier
Accessories often get overlooked, but they’ll make your shooting day far more enjoyable:
Fast SD card (UHS-I U3): £20–£30. You’ll thank yourself when the buffer doesn’t choke mid-burst.
Spare batteries: £20–£40. A long race weekend will drain power quickly.
Monopod: £30–£50. Perfect if you’re using heavier glass or shooting endurance events.
Rain cover: £10–£15. This is Britain — if you’re shooting at Silverstone, Donington, or Oulton Park, you’ll want one.
Pro tip: chuck a small microfibre cloth in your bag too. A wet lens front element can ruin shots faster than you’d think.
Budget Breakdown Example
Here’s a realistic setup you could build today on the used market:
Canon EOS 80D body: £375
Canon EF-S 55–250mm STM lens: £130
64GB UHS-I U3 SD card + spare battery: £50
Monopod + rain cover: £40
Total: £595
That’s everything you need to cover a club race at Brands Hatch or a BTCC weekend at Knockhill. If you’ve got closer to £1,000 to spend, put the extra into the lens — the Sigma 100–400mm would futureproof your setup nicely.
Technique Matters More Than Gear
Even the best camera won’t make up for poor technique. Thankfully, motorsport photography is all about practice, patience, and timing. A few quick tips:
Master panning – Start at around 1/200 sec and work slower as you get better. This creates motion blur in the background while keeping the car sharp.
Think about corners – Cars are more dramatic under braking or mid-corner. You’ll get sparks, lockups, kerb-hopping, and better angles.
Arrive early – Use practice and qualifying to experiment with shutter speeds and shooting positions. By the race, you’ll be ready.
Don’t overshoot – It’s tempting to fire 1,000 frames, but try to anticipate the action. One perfectly timed frame beats 50 near-misses.
The Joy of Shooting Motorsport
The best thing about motorsport photography on a budget is that it gets you out at circuits, learning, and enjoying the sport from a new perspective. Your first few track days with a budget setup won’t produce magazine-cover shots — but they will teach you how to handle the speed, the light, and the unpredictability of racing.
As you improve, you can upgrade bit by bit. First a better lens, then maybe a newer body. But the core skills — panning, timing, composition — are free, and they’re what will really make your images stand out.
Final Thoughts
You don’t need to spend thousands to get started in motorsport photography. With around £600–£1,000, you can buy a capable second-hand body, a telephoto zoom lens, and a few accessories to keep you shooting all day long.
The most important step is just to start. Grab a ticket to your nearest circuit, pack your budget kit, and practice until you’re hooked. Who knows — that first photo you take of a car mid-slide at Paddock Hill Bend might be the start of a lifelong passion.